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Hydronic 10 and Hydronic M are covered on DW10 service page. The photographs are of a D4WSC but the information covers a number of similar models. Early versions of these heaters had some differences, see bottom of page. OEM heaters should either be the same or very similar to service. We dislike using images copied from manuals so if you do a service please photograph each stage for us.

Preferably take the images in high resolution landscape format showing every detail. We can edit images. Servicing information for these models has been created by combining information from various sources. We did not have any of these to take apart and manuals do not show every detail. We believe the info is accurate but please confirm this. Donation of unwanted or non repairable heaters would be greatly appreciated. Any comments, suggestions or corrections will help improve the site page for other users.

Remove the cover. Other models have no pumps so the first 3 steps will be different but straightforward. Routine servicing can be done without removing this cover. Replace the O- ring seal on the pipes if this cover is removed as in previous steps. Lubricate the ring with silicone. Upper screws are 10 mm, lower ones 65 mm and 16 mm. Remove the inlet port with lining 2. Unplug the ECU connector 3 , there is a retaining latch. Combustion air inlet. This part should have a thick lining on the inside but here it is absent.

It is not usually necessary to dismantle these parts completely. If dismantled lubricate O- rings with appropriate lubricant. Glowpin screen 3 should be renewed during service even if it looks ok as particles can be trapped between the layers.

Ceramic glowpin 1 should last the life of the heater. Socket 2 , O- ring 4 , Flame sensor 5 , Bracket 6. A second thinner O- ring is not shown in this picture.

Retaining wedge is just visible on left side of ECU connector. It may not be necessary to remove but the Glowpin 1 Flame sensor 4 and Blower 3 can only be removed if you have a terminal removal tool to release the wires from the 14 pin connector. A friendly garage mechanic may have one in his tool kit. The glowpin socket 2 is retained by a C shaped Bracket which is held in place by the Flame sensor. Disconnect the fuel hose from the fuel pipe 3. Undo the 3 Torx screws 2.

Ease off the cover and fuel pump. The original plastic tie clip might be replaced by a jubilee clip. Levering the impeller from the splined shaft in the wrong manner can break it, see Blower page before removing. The impeller clearance is 0.

The blower motor is wired into the 14 pin connector. Undo the 3 torx screws 5 and separate the blower section. The blower wires will only have to be removed if replacing it. Blower section separated with the wiring. Undo the pressure spring screw 3 and remove the Overheating sensor 1 and Temperature sensor 2. Temperature sensor has blue wires, Overheating sensor has red wires.

Motor is 8. These parts usually do not have to be separated in a normal service. When refitting the heat exchanger 1 the groove 4 must fit with the stopper 3 in the body. Check heat exchanger fits properly in the body, it has to be pressed firmly into position. Confirm the socket for the overheating sensor matches the location hole in the body. Blower with Flame sensor and Glowpin components removed. It is not necessary to do this for most servicing.

The glowpin screen fits inside the glowpin socket 2 and can be removed from this side without removing the glowpin. Clean the glowpin and fit a new screen. The welding spots should be at the bottom. Knobbly deposits on the glowpin indicate water in the fuel. Combustion air is blown by the impeller through the hole 1 and swirls into the centre where it enters the burner.

Exhaust gasses exit the burner into the exhaust port 4 , they come into contact with the flame sensor 3. In his video Steve mentions some holes in the burner are difficult to see and to make sure they are clear. I suspect the holes shown here are not the holes he mentions, usually burners have some small ventilation holes in the glowpin housing bottom hole.

Confirmation and photos of position of holes wanted please. Some burners may require chemical or industrial ultrasound cleaning as a mechanical clean cannot reach hidden parts. Any chemical cleaner can be dangerous, always follow manufacturers instructions. For health and safety reasons we make no recommendation but many users clean with caustic soda.

Inside the burner is a wire mesh, probably similar to this one shown in a cutaway model MII. The mesh can become clogged by deposits and can deteriorate with prolonged use, see the D4 example in autopsy pages. The upper arrow points to a groove in the glowpin socket for the thin O- ring and the lower arrow to the thicker one. In between these two is a slot that allows air to flow to the glowpin. Ensure this is not blocked by deposits.

The inside of the heat exchanger is fully accessible for mechanical cleaning, chemical cleaning can also be used. The heater body is the outer layer of the water jacket. Water flows inside it over the heat exchanger.

Water inlet 1 , Water outlet 2 , Overheating sensor hole 3. Temperature sensor hole 4. Pull the burner 3 out of the heat exchanger 2. Replace the gasket 4. For most services it will not be necessary to split the heat exchanger 2 from the body 1 , to do so temperature sensors 6,7 must have been previously removed, then press the heat exchanger out with a screwdriver through the water inlet.

The fuel pump has a filter in the base that should be checked as part of the service. The pump 1 should pull out of the holder 2. The holder should not need to be removed but if it is when refitting ensure the recess 2 on the holder slots into the connection web 3. Fuel filter in a similar D1LCC pump recess. You may have to use a pointed implement dug into the side of the filter to remove it.

Unscrew the 17 mm nut on the fuel pump inlet, left. Do not unscrew the nut at the end closest to the terminals. Badly neglected filter with its replacement. The condition of this filter is not normal, the filter can usually just be checked for debris and does not need to be changed.

The glowpin screen looks in very bad condition. It should always be renewed as should the gaskets. The burner gasket acts as a thermal barrier so don't try DIY gaskets like cardboard. It covers all 6 models. This set does not have the large and 2 small black O- rings which are not always needed. O- rings should be lubricated with silicone, not WD40 or any petroleum based lubricants which are unsuitable.

The water pump runs continuously from switch on until the heater is switched off. The heater checks the glowpin and fuel pump before starting. It must also check the temperature and overheat sensors and water pump but when it does so is not specified. The heater will make two start attempts as described on the faults page. Flame out failures are also treated as described on the faults page as are other faults.

Fault codes are on the Fault Codes page. The troubleshooting and repair manual describes how the heater operates in slightly more detail. Fuel quantity test as described on fuel page in cc or ml should be between:.


Eberspacher Hydronic D3WZ Manuals, Error Codes & Guides

Free shipping. This listing is for part or sub-assembly number given below only. This situation is often caused by the aerated strainer or damaged water heater gaskets. Serious faults may occur: no flame, no start-up and overheating of the device.


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